Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Travelogue 4, Spain: Amiss with the Missives

My dear friends: I've been amiss with my travel logs, I know. I've started several, but never finished them. Truth is, I went through a dip and wasn't coming up with my favorite flavor of ice cream, but I'm back on track. Now that I know what the hell I'll be doing with my life for the next year, I feel purposeful and excited. It's disconcerting to be stuck in cluelesshood without a map and coordinates plotting out the route to the final destination of happiness. I know, I know, happiness is not a destination, but the journey itself. Clichés aside, my reality is that to become comfortable with the discomfort of not knowing takes an exhausting amount of attitudinal aerobics and infinite patience.  In the meantime, I cling to the ever illusive idea of pulling into Happiness's driveway after a long life’s drive and bellying up to the bar for a beer and a rest.

I think what I'll do is piece together the false starts of the logs of the past four weeks and then send in a separate account the story of the highlight of this trip--befriending a pair of homeless people on Christmas Eve. I've visited them every day without fail and taken notes on our conversations. They unknowingly possess a great amount of wisdom, compassion and joy and have dispelled the misconceptions I had about the homeless. My time with them has been transformative.

I believe we last left off in travel log #3 with the trials and tribulations of living with Kiti, the cranky cat. Her demeanor has settled, but not her stomach. Just yesterday I put on my ropers to take a bit of Texan into these tapa bars and when I pushed through the swinging door from the living room into the dark hallway, my sole hit a patch of Purina Meow Mix puke and I came within a gnat's nose of busting my ass. Then there was the gross factor of cleaning off my boot. I drug that foot all the way across the Plaza Mayor hoping to clear the crevices. Despite her digestive issues, I have grown to love Barf Bag and will miss her warm body curled up on mine.

I´ve disregarded tradition this trip by beginning the travel missives with something other than the plane ride to the undertaken destination. There is a story to be told, and here it is:
As if to get back at me for making fun of previous seatmates, the Universe left me unaccompanied for the 7 hr and 10 min flight on Aer Lingus from Washington to Madrid. Where in the world did they come up with a name like Aer Lingus for an airline? I couldn’t help it; every time a crew member addressed us on behalf of Aer Lingus I thought of Captain Hook having oral sex. Anyway, perhaps I was issued solitude for the duration of a flight across the Atlantic to reflect on why I derive gratification from poking fun at people on planes. For example, I wasn’t going to write about this, because I had decided it contrary to good karma to publish my observations (criticisms) of others, but it’s just burning me a new one to tell you about the West Texas farmboy who was at my side on the flight out of Dallas. Beside, I need an example to prove my point about why it’s wrong to make fun of people, on planes.

“This is my first time flying,” Opie turned to me and announced with a smile that would more suitably go with a full stringer of catfish than an airplane ride. Not knowing quite how to respond to this confession I said, “Oh, it’s not that bad,” and immediately felt the doofiness of that response. Why was I assuming he was anticipating an unpleasant experience? He didn’t seem nervous. To the contrary, his bulging fishstringer smile complimented a face glowing a few shades pinker than his red crew cut. He’s probably taken short flights all over a rodeo ring since he could walk. Shoot, this is a pony ride for a seasoned cowboy like him. However, when he pulled money from the 3 x 4 inch flap-faced, leather wallet chained to his beltloop to pay for a Jim Beam and Coke, I thought maybe he just has a good pokerface. Really he is scared shitless and needs a stiff drink to calm his nerves. On the other hand, he didn’t look a day over 21, so maybe he was just enjoying the excitement of a new freedom, like a kid riding his bike no-hands for the second time.

In keeping with good southern manners, he sure was polite. “Ma’m, how’d you get your seat to go back like that?” he asked with a big catfish grin. If he hadn’t been looking straight at me, I would have answered with Robert De Niro’s classic, “You talkin’ to me?” “Ma’m” is a social phenomena to me. I was raised to use it along with “Sir” anytime I was addressing an adult, and I still do use it in circumstances of an extremely respectful demand. When I am addressed with it by anyone who’s age would make it biologically impossible to be my child, however, it makes me feel, well, more mature than my age.

Of similar significance is the distinction between, “Señorita” and “Señora.” Two summers ago while traveling in Colombia I noticed I was addressed with both. Since turning 40, though, it’s as if I have “old maid” tattooed on my forehead and I’m never called anything but Señora.

Anyway, due to my impure thoughts of Opie, my request for a fascinating, wealthy Spanish seatmate to charm into inviting me to his/her summer home in Malaga was denied. Opportunities for human interaction abounded despite that, given that my seat was diagonal to the lavatory, which meant I could inspect and, if so inclined, interrogate anyone waiting in line. I also had the good fortune of lateral alignment with the galley where the flight crew takes smokeless cigarette breaks and throws each other under the bus. A live soap opera performance, just for me. The red-head with her hair in a beehive cornered the English, gay attendant to tell him he better not cross the hussy that’s crew leader today. She’s nice to your face, but piss her off and she will make your life miserable. She went into great detail to support her assertion. Wise for his age, the strapping, young Brit only responded with, “Hmm, I’ve never had a problem with her.” Shortly after, red-head dragged a female coworker into the galley to see if she was anymore malleable.

The benefit of sitting alone is less exposure to germs. You never heard such hacking and snot slurping in your life on this flight. It sounded like an orchestra of infected body organs  performing a sickly symphony of Ode to Flem Extraction: "cough, cough, cough, cough…sniff, sniff…sniff, sniff….blow, blow, blow, blow..hack, hack…hack, hack."  From the moment that concert started I began visualizing my white blood cells morphing into Incredible Hulks, multiplying like rabbits and standing as bouncers at every possible entrance to my immune system. It worked for four weeks. Then I stayed out dancing  dancing and overindulging until 4a.m. Not surprisingly I came down with a nasty one that has kept me voiceless and up coughing for days . A full night's rest and a day of apartment confinement has done the trick. Only a trace of raspy remains.
I’ve visas to get, a house to rent, a new language to learn (Portuguese for Brazil), tourist site facts to memorize, new friends to enjoy and much more, so I’d best get on it.  Look for “Under the Awning of Los Alamos” coming to a blog near you.
Much love, G