Monday, June 27, 2011

Travelogue 12, Virginia: The Great Greyhound Gagging con't

June 24-30, 2011
I have felt the love and thank you for indulging my moment of insecurity. Many a  starfish waved a paw in response to my need for affirmation signaling that all my effort is not in vain. So, in the words of my high school softball coach, who was one of the first to respond, “Quit contemplating your navel and get back to work!” On with the Great Greyhound Gagging saga!
If I recall correctly, we left off in the Charlottesville bus station with my proclamation that I would NOT get back on that bus!
Well, I did….
Between my declaration and my betrayal of it, the following happened:
The driver flat out insulted me to my face. I stomped off to the bathroom frantically dialing on the way my cousin who was to pick me up in Norfolk. Once in the stall, I hung up before she could answer. Now that my breathing had returned to normal and a decent receptacle was in front of me, I didn’t know which end of my body was going to take advantage of it first. I stood there a minute trying to decide if I needed to face the toilet or the door. I hadn’t eaten since early morning, so my stomach had nothing with which to express its feelings about the situation, so I had a four hour pee, or so it seemed, and called my cousin. She got a hysterical earful that ended with, “I’ll call you back when I find out what time the next bus for Norfolk leaves.”
“1 o’clock tomorrow! The next bus doesn’t leave until 1 o’clock tomorrow!!” began the second hysterical phone call.
I ran like O.J. through an airport to get my place in the reboard line. Please, please, please, Power that Be, grant me the open seat up front of someone whose final destination was Charlottesville! My prayer was answered, on the third row, next to a woman suffering from schizophrenia.  To her it was obvious she already had a seatmate and if I plopped my butt down there, I would squish him. I asked permission to take the seat and she responded by pointing to him and conferring with the window.  I was very sorry, but I was not going back there, no matter whose lap I had to sit on. Anything of mine that crossed the dividing line of our seats sent her cringing to the point of melding her body into the side of the bus. I felt like a leaper and wanted Jesus to come cure me ASAP. I wanted to take her hand in mine and tell her I understood and she didn’t have to fear me, but I knew if I moved even a millimeter more into her space it could cause a total meltdown. So, I tried to hug the aisle, send loving vibs and went back to writing.
Unbeknownst to me, we had left in this portable gas chamber only a one hour ride to Richmond where everybody had to change buses. I might not have made such an ass out of myself had I known that. A 45 minute layover would be plenty of time to get something to eat and recompose myself for the final leg of the trip. I was hungrier than a bear sow stumbling out of the cave in spring with three cubs hanging off her tits.  Uncle Bo’s Chicken Hut, or something like that, was the only eating establishment in the station and looked decent enough from a distance, but once I saw the selection of nothing but fried fowl parts under the greasy glass, I did a 1-80 toward the vending machines.
All I had was a 20, so I went to the arcade to use the change machine. To hang a “broken” sign on it seemed redundant. Nobody in their right mind would believe that a machine as abused as that one could possibly be in service. Back to Bo’s, which now had a line as long as the bus x 4, and I was not going to stand in it when all I wanted was change.
You may remember that back in March under the influence of midlife crisis duress and fulfilling a dream, I sold everything I owned, save my house and a few boxes of sentimental junk. Thus, all my remaining possessions must go where I go without a mule to haul it. Well, actually, I suppose I am my own mule and thus looked like this: 5’0”, 98lb me with a bulging baby blue 43 liter pack mounted on my back and a rolled up sleeping pad strapped across the top of it (none of which I was about to take off because it takes a village to get it back on). Hanging from my chest, kangaroo style, I had a smaller backpack with my laptop, books, wallet, essentials, etc. to offset the weight and at least maintain a three steps forward, two stumbling back ratio. And behind me I was dragging a suitcase full of camping equipment big enough for me to fit in, should the need arise.
Not many years ago Richmond boasted sixth place on the list of America’s most dangerous cities to live in and I would add most creepy bus station to pass through.   I’ve been in dozens of stations in countries all over Latin-American, but I’ve never felt so paranoid of being robbed as I was in Richmond.  Point: I was not leaving any of my stuff unattended for a second and it was staying as close to me as white on rice no matter how small the space.
Back at Uncle Bo’s, I and my traveling getup bumped and excused our way up to the front of the line to ask for change.
“I ain’t giving you nothing less you buy something.”
“Well, can you sell me a bottle of water?”
“If you come through the line like everybody else.”
As I swung around to go a woman’s voice spat at me from behind, “You best be looking out where you going, gurl--you ‘bout knocked this drink out of my hand! You need to be paying attention to what you doin’!’” My sleeping pad had whacked her at boob level, just as she pulled her Coke out of the drink fountain. Seven hours of aroma therapy topped off with an hour of rejection had stirred up in me enough nasty sentiment to rip somebody a new one. She was at least a foot taller and 50lbs heavier, but I was in the mood to take her on.  What was there to fear? I was totally padded on all sides except for my face. If I turned the other cheek I could mule kick her and take her out at the knees. The heavens parted, however, and a holy hand reached down to hold my hoof. My momma’s ghost intervened and whispered in my ear one of her wise sayings, “Kill them with kindness.” Nice washed over me, Ms. Rude was spared an ass-whoopin’ and I said sweetly, “I am so sorry, ma’m. Will you please accept my apology?”
That changed her tune. “Well, baby, I’s just afraid you was gonna make me drop this drink.”
“Well, I didn’t,” I wanted to say and ask for a dollar for the vending machine in lieu of an apology.
Still in the change predicament, I went to the ticket counter and before I opened my mouth I could see by the agent’s chubby scowl that if I got a ten, a five and 5 ones it was going to cost me. Too bad the vending machine didn’t accept attitude. She handed me enough of that to buy the thing empty.
I spied the healthiest product in there, Sunchips, and my mouth gushed spit with anticipation. Clink, clink, look for the code to push. What??!! No codes? What the hell kind of Russian Roulette vending machine is this? I told myself to calm down and use my noggin. The top row would be A, the next B, etc and the numbers would follow suit. I press C6 and down falls a pack of Wriggle’s spearmint gum. O.K. then, the letters run horizontally. F3-Lifesavors. D9 Little Debbie chocolate cakes. E4-Tootsie Rolls. And so on I went, calling my own Bingo numbers, but never yelling Bingo! Instead I shook the machine by its shoulders and screamed, “I want my fuckin’ Sunchips you worthless bucket-of-bolts! Now drop them before I mule kick you in the balls!!
Who was talking to the window now, but with much less composure than my former seatmate?
The passengers for my bus were lining up, so I took my armful of unwanted loot and got in line. My blood sugar was so low by then that if I ate any of the 100% pure sugar shit in my collection, I’d go into an insulin coma and get robbed right down to my Hanes Her Ways. Gum was the best bet to stave off starving.
Just for the record, the woman I whacked in Uncle Bo’s got on the bus huffing, “It wasn’t there! Them damn bitches done robbed me! Can’t trust nobody now-a-days!”  A fine case of evidence to support my belief that karma rules.
I took a front seat by a sleeping blind man, sure that we’d get along just fine and I could finally relax. A blind woman sat ahead of us and Mouthy Ms. Rude behind. To my right an elderly woman, obviously wanting her space, had walled herself in behind a suitcase, shopping bags and a purse big enough for me to fit in, should the need arise. All I could see were her knees on which rested a large print Bible open to a page in the book of Job where the verses consist of nothing more than a genealogical diatribe of Abraham’s descendents. She had highlighted all but one sentence, which made me wonder who the black sheep of the family was. What had he done to not merit a swipe of the holy marker? Did he bare the same name of a son-in-law she hated? Too, I wanted to know why, unless shopping for baby names, anyone would find inspiration in a list of obsolete names, most of which are unpronounceable to the English speaking tongue.  Perhaps giving it a go is a mental exercise to ward off brain atrophy. Who knows?
We hadn’t been on the road more than fifteen minutes when I noticed a barely perceivable discomfort on the cartilage part of my right ear. It wasn’t pain exactly, just a tickle. I ran my finger around the loopy maze and felt a small bump smack dab in the hard to reach center. Great, of all the times to be surrounded by the visually impaired. I messed with it a minute, blindly trying to identify it as wax, dirt, a pimple or punishment for gossip. On one swipe it did a handstand with the help of my fingernail. I had a TICKle alright, burrowed as deep in my flesh as a mongoose in its den. I was sure of it, because just that morning what I mistook for underwear elastic pulling on a public hair turned out to be a tick mooching off my coochie. I finally got the one in my ear between thumb and forefinger, pulled like hell and upon examination saw only the body of the headless bastard. My ear began to throb and I thought of the worst.  Limes disease! Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever! We studied those in WFR. Both can be fatal. Stress and toxic shock had so jeopardized my immune system that I was sure to succumb.
My dear cousins met me at the station with a water bottle full of chilled chardonnay, which I gulped down between paragraphs of telling this same story. I wanted food, a shower, medical attention and sympathy, and made those needs known with no bones about it. Did they not love me so much they might have dumped my ass out on the side of the road reneging their invitation to stay as long as I wanted.
Priority: a shower. I stripped down, looked down and saw buried in the soft flesh of my belly two 8-legged poppy seeds…and then more brown spots on my thighs, my chest, my torso, my ankles!! They were everywhere! Geezus, F’n, Christmas! Was there no curtain call to this drama?
“Gwynne!! Come quick and bring tweezers! Bring needles! Bring knives! Bring alcohol, both kinds!”
By the end of the extractions, we had removed two ticks and bloodied ten moles. I was over it. I ate, drank, doctored the wounds and went to bed, swearing I’d hitchhike before every going Greyhound again.
Otherwise update: Marta’s bar is up and running and she has done/is doing everything I thought I was going to get to help with during the two months in Spain. She’s cleaned, painted, decorated and inaugurated the space and now slides frothy mugs of beer down the bar, like I wanted to.
I have made plans to see me through August. Stay with cousins in Portsmouth until July 14, pass through Dallas for a brief three days, attend a two-week course at the International Tour Management Institute (and stay with a friend I taught English with in Ecuador in 1993--very excited about that reunion!), head north to Albany, Oregon to visit another friend I haven’t seen in 18 years, and then finish off the trip with a stay in Portland with a high school friend. I keep a low-grade anxiety about all of this instability and sporadic income and flat-out uncertainty, but had I not uprooted myself the chances of seeing these wonderful people from my past (all in one swoop) are slim. Faith is the cure for my anxiety, but it doesn’t come easily to me. Perhaps that’s the whole purpose for this journey.
As always, much love and many thanks for reading. Were it not for you, I’d have little reason to write and it would be ungrateful to not practice the gift Source gave me.  Peace, G

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