Monday, September 26, 2011

Travelogue 15: The Same in Spain Stays Mainly in the Plain

Dearest Friends and Family, Sept 26, 2011
Greetings from Valladolid, Spain. I’m high as a kite from a four day trek on El Camino de Santiago and can’t wait to share. As usual, though, I’m behind on updates, so first, here’s what was the latest three weeks ago. Truth is, I thought I already sent this. Woops.
Travelogue # 15: The Same in Spain Stays Mainly in the Plain September 11, 2011
I find myself in Valladolid for the third time this year (the fifth time in the last seven years). It’s not my habit to visit the same foreign destination more than once, given that I travel precisely to experience novelty. However, emotional motives have me stepping out of my borders and thus I'm doing something different by "been there done that" x7. This familiarity doesn’t mean I don’t still get lost every, single day. To get a mental picture of the layout of the place, take a hammer and whack a windshield. The epicenter is the Plaza Mayor and the cracks spiderwebbing outward are the streets. Change the name of each crack about every three inches and there you have a map of Valladolid. Usually when visiting a new place, I like to get lost so I can interact with the people, hear their accents, see things I hadn’t planned to, etc., but I’m over it here. I just want to get where I’m going pronto.
Quite frankly, I’m restless as a kid wanting cotton candy in the backseat of a Cadillac on the way home from school in June. So, to keep the ants in my pants fed and submissive, I’m looking at my stint here as an inward visit to a new place within myself. There’s still plenty of me to get to know and I still get very lost. Many mini-me’s stand on every corner to ask directions and consult on the best way to get where I want to go. It’s a question of patience--everything will be new in Uruguay.
Well, I’m yet to slide the frosty mug of brew down the lacquered slab of pine that I have romanticized about in previous missives. First, because they don’t serve beer in mugs here and the ballerina of a glass reserved for beer is likely to tip with the force of motion, tsunaming all in its path. Though I’m sure I would learn some new curse words as a result, I’d rather not cause such a ruckus. Not good for business. But besides that there are legal matters. I don’t have a work permit and I’m not covered under the insurance. Spaniards are so oxymoronic to me--laid back in matters of time, cursing and socializing, but excessively to the T with following rules. For example, the beer vendor Marta works with gave her some big umbrellas for the patio, but the police came by and said she had to take them down because they carry the distributor’s name and advertising is not allowed on shade umbrellas, or anything else stationary on the street. I’m a bit incredulous and think the truth of the matter is that the other day when a gust of wind come tunneling down the alley and blew one of the umbrellas over on an elderly man, he pulled some strings. It knocked him flat down and was about to drag him away. Some people don’t appreciate a Mary Poppins amusement ride.
It has not been a quiet week here in Lake Valladolid. I arrived smack dab in the middle of Mardi Gras al espaƱol. Spainards are very social normally and spend as much time in the parks and plazas as they do the house, but this week it’s out of control. Supposedly this is a religious celebration of the virgin of San Lorenzo or some such revered religious figure, but I do not see the connection between the excessive debauchery and homage to a holy heroine. I hope Sister Lorenzo did more than just protect her virginity to gain her status. It not doubt takes much self-restraint to refrain from sex one’s whole life, but that doesn’t mean I want to hang her from the rearview mirror or light a candle to her when I need something. All of these iconic virgins have a longing look in their eyes. It’s not a longing to be with the Father, or for Jesus to resurrect. It’s a flatout plea to please let them get laid, just once, and not in the manger. I’ve digressed.
Today is the last day of the festival and I am glad. Maybe I can sleep without earplugs for one night. Word is the masses will be hungover for 3 days and Valladolid will become a ghost town until they can stomach alcohol again. Bring on the tumbleweeds, I say, so I can get some sleep.
So really, there isn’t much to report. Marta works at the bar 12:30-4:30pm then again 7:30--some godawful hour of the morning. We see each other during siesta and late morning. I’m reading, writing, running and visiting with the homeless friends I made when I was here at Christmas. (See previous travelogues) More exciting stuff is sure to come.
Hope you all are well. Much love, Gigi