Monday, October 29, 2012

Travelogue 29, Uruguay: I'm Going to Cuba!

Ah-ight, ya’ll, the fourth person has asked me, “Where are you now?” which brought to my attention that I haven’t sent out an update in months. The good news is I’ve been so wrapped up in my book that I haven’t had any writing juice left in me by the end of the day. There’s supposed to be bad news when there is good news, isn’t there? The only thing I can think of is on Friday I start the first real job I’ve had since May of 2010, which in and of itself isn’t bad news at all. It’s very exciting actually.  It’s all the “have to’s” that come with a real job that is bad news. In other words, I’ve got to clean up, and stop acting and looking like my permanent residence is a tent.  I’ve got to give a rat’s ass about my personal appearance. I’ve got to look in the mirror before I walk out the door, and not just to pop zits. I’ve got to start showing up, and on time!  I’ve gotten sooooo lax living in Latin America. “I’ll be there,” means wait until ten minutes after you were supposed to be there and then drag ass to the event, if and when you feel like it. Ya’ll ain’t even believing I could live like that, are you? Ms. Stressed Out, Uptight, Perfectionist, Punctuality Pants herself. The whole reason I started this self-induced life douche which has landed me here in a fishing village in Uruguay is I had a nervous breakdown from taking things too damn seriously.
Anyway, as first steps toward a return to professionalism, I bought a travel hairdryer, a new dress shirt (not from the Thrift!) and some eyeliner. I know you want to know about the new job: One of the many positive things Obama has done while in office is open relations with Cuba, and it is now possible for Americans to enter the country directly, instead of having to sneak in through a backdoor, i.e. another country. It’s got some stipulations. Not just any American in white tennis shoes, dark socks, Bermudas and a Hawaiian shirt carrying a camera around his neck can get in. If your reason for going to sit on the beach and drink Pina Coladas, forget it. The visit must be in a group, authorized by permit, and have the intention of participating in an educational/cultural exchange with the Cuban people. My particular program is called “People to People” (http://www.grandcirclefoundation.org/cuba/12day-itinerary-cuba-a-bridge-between-cultures.aspx) and my job is as an adventure travel tour operator leading groups that leave from Miami. The bestest part of all is that we are assigned a Cuba tour guide who provides the facts, dates, history, blhaa, blhaa, bhlaa commentary on the sites we see.  My job is to sniff out ADVENTURE, to find opportunities for us to interact with the people off the beaten path.
If you’ve been following these travelogues you know thatsort of thing is my specialty. In the interview I had to talk about a time when I stirred up my own adventure. Of course, I had a plethora to choose from, but I told the story about getting the 75 year-old bank guard in the Dominican Republic to escort me up to the waterfalls in Limon. Remember we started out in the back of a truck with a bunch of yahoos just dragging out of the bars? Then we went to his house (more of a tin roof shack) and his wife made me a big breakfast? Then I refused to ride a horse up to the falls, like everybody else in their right mind does, and he had to carry me on his shoulders to ford the rivers? My retelling of that one was a ringer—bam, hired. (If I had told the one about visiting the cocaine lab in the Colombian jungle, I would have ruined my career.) As I said, the training starts this Friday, so I’ll fill you in on details next time, assuming my alarm goes off and I make it to Miami….haven’t had to use it for so long.
It’s a great day to catch you up. It’s so foggy that if the mist molecules were to have a group hug, we’d be in a downpour, which is what might happen if this pattern plays out. Last weekend we had two gorgeous days (like yesterday) followed by fog, followed by a blow-the-hide-right-off-your-hair- red- alert tropical storm. I swear I thought I was going to end up in Kansas, when I took off to the store on my bike.
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As always, I started writing a travelogue way back when and I hate to waste it, so:
October 2, 2012
Once again I bring you old news narrated in present tense, but hopefully with this one I’ll get you caught up all the way to the moment at hand, which is a bus ride back to my little village on the coast of Uruguay. Time should be no excuse for not finishing given it’s a four and a half hour trudge. {ha! that didn’t happen} It rains outside the window;  I’m quickly moving through a pack of oatmeal, chocolate chip cookies to cope with the wet and grey. Even without them, though, I’m mostly sunny on my inside.
September 9-29, 2012
After reluctantly leaving the Texas ranch that became so dear to me, I landed in a most comfortable situation in the Oakland, CA penthouse of my dear friend of 20+ years, Roxanne. We met way back in 1995 in Ecuador, lost contact for over a decade, reconnected and picked up where we left off as if we’d just had lunch yesterday. I hope you are fortunate enough to have friendships like that.
If you’ve been following my travels since the first trip to Spain in 2010, you will remember my flatmate and charge, Kitty Conan the Barbarian, whose claw marks I still bare today and on whose throw up I slipped and busted my ass, but good. Again I am sharing space with furballs, but Roxanne’s four cats are of a delightfully docile temperament and mostly ignore me. There is one little, teeny tiny….what do I call it?.... hindrance to a metaphorically clawless cohabitation: Patches… or Sprouts… or Mr. Tabbs… or maybe it’s Scratchy, anyway, one of them, suffers from Meow Mix reflux disease. After a squashy step on a few sick spots, I’ve trained myself to cross the living room on tiptoes, as if navigating a minefield in the shadowy morning light. It’s a good idea to scan the cushions, too, before taking a seat, but that’s as automatic to me as buckling up in a car. During the stay on the ranch,  I learned to always look down and back for rattlesnakes before plopping my hindparts on a rock.
While we are on the topic of snakes, a highlight of this trip to California has been to meet some first cousins I’d only heard about and seen in photos. In general, we are colossally different in how we turned out, that’s to say in our lifestyles. One similarity, though, is how we welcome strangers into our homes. If you had come to our house when I was a kid, we would have plucked from the rafters the teenage bobcat we raised in the basement and handed her to you so as to make you feel at home. Truth is, if she didn’t warm up to you, she would think you a rabbit, stalk you through the house and then sneak attack your ass with a pounce from behind. My cousins got that beat, though. They bust out a 6ft red tail boa constrictor to give you a warm  hug (actually, it’s cold.  “Demon,” as he/she/it is called, is hoping you provide the warmth). Once I emerged from my 30 min, get-your-shit-together pep talk with myself in the bathroom, it was a very bonding experience for all of us, especially Demon.
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It’s not a g-logue without a “seatmate story”:
The seat in front of me creeks loudly with every move of the 250lb, restless rugby player trying, unsuccessfully, to get comfortable. A news flash comes to mind I had heard the day before about a row of seats on an aircraft that came unbolted in turbulence. The seats did a jig across the aisle and the plane made an emergency landing. Of more note to me than the incident itself was the insight of an expert aeronautical engineer they brought in. He commented, “ Seatbelts are of no use in a case like this when the seats aren’t attached to the plane itself. The passengers will just go wherever the seats go, if they aren’t bolted in." Hmmmm….never would have imagined that!
Forget that preflight speech about oxygen masks and floatation devices. We’ve all heard that so many times we know it by heart. I want some new instructions on what to do when my seatmates slam the top of their heads into the overhead compartment and get a concussion. I’m usually the shortest one on the row, so they are going to take the brunt of the blow and I’ll be left to deal with the injuries.
If the row I’m on ever comes unbolted, I’m going to pray for some religious fanatic types  to be seated around me, the kind that believe in the laying on of hands and speaking in toungues. They will keep us grounded, and so confused we won't even notice we are about to have a neck reduction. I’d be much more worried about whether or not they were putting in a good word for me than hobbling around the cabin in a three-legged race toward first class.
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On a final note, I’m over this book nagging at me to be birthed. Talk about a difficult labor. I’m not messing around anymore, so when people ask, “Are you a writer?”, as they so often do because I’m forever scrawling in my diary in public places and bumming pen, paper or a crumpled napkin off someone so as to not lose an inspiration, I’m going to stop answering, “Well, kinda, I like to write stuff” and affirm, “Yes, I am.”
I bought in the airport bookstore a memoir and a collection of humorous essays. Before leaving I returned to the shelf where I got them, laid my hand on an open spot and said to myself and the Universe, “This is where mine goes.” Then Maya Angelou came to mind. I heard her deliver a speech at Radford University in 1990 that she opened by singing a line from a poem she wrote: “I shall not be moved.” It applies to my conviction to overcome the barriers that keep my voice unheard. The rest of me is movin' on....to Cuba!!!!!!! And then VA for Thanksgiving!!!! And then back here to Punta del Diablo for sun and beach!!!! And then…..wherever the winds blowing toward fun take me.
Happy Halloween and love, G