I´ve stepped off the walking path a few days to visit a friend and have access to a real, 10 finger keyboard, so I thought I´d take advantage of the luxury and send a few lines. It occurred to me after I sent the last travelogue that you are probably more interested in what life is like on the Camino de Santiago than you are the blister on my toe or how an uptight French woman impacts my bodily functions. I didn´t give you much of a context for either. For a textbook sort of overview: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Way_of_St._James. And/or you can check out the movie The Way: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5VZKWcgw6c
In addition, I offer my 2 cents worth here: The skinny of it is, I walk between 11-15 miles everyday with a 20lb pack on my back. It usually takes me about eight hours because I´m making it a point not to rush. That hasn´t been easy given that so many people are doing the Camino now that I sometimes feel like a cow in a herd of eighty at feeding time. Beds are first come, first served at the next destination. So, far I´ve always found a place to take me in....and the high season is over...I can´t imagine what it´s like in July when Europe is on vacation.
A typical day goes like this: around 6 a.m. I hear the first riser stirring through his bag and then a headlamp pierces the darkness in our comunal sleeping area. Depending on how loud the snoring chorus was that night and thus, my degree of feeling rested, I either try to go back to sleep or join the early riser in packing up. No matter what, everybody has to be out of the albergue (hostel) by 8 a.m. Before heading out of town, I stop for a cafe con leche and lookover the guidebook´s description of the hike ahead. Then I duck in a store for lunch and snack supplies.
In addition, I offer my 2 cents worth here: The skinny of it is, I walk between 11-15 miles everyday with a 20lb pack on my back. It usually takes me about eight hours because I´m making it a point not to rush. That hasn´t been easy given that so many people are doing the Camino now that I sometimes feel like a cow in a herd of eighty at feeding time. Beds are first come, first served at the next destination. So, far I´ve always found a place to take me in....and the high season is over...I can´t imagine what it´s like in July when Europe is on vacation.
A typical day goes like this: around 6 a.m. I hear the first riser stirring through his bag and then a headlamp pierces the darkness in our comunal sleeping area. Depending on how loud the snoring chorus was that night and thus, my degree of feeling rested, I either try to go back to sleep or join the early riser in packing up. No matter what, everybody has to be out of the albergue (hostel) by 8 a.m. Before heading out of town, I stop for a cafe con leche and lookover the guidebook´s description of the hike ahead. Then I duck in a store for lunch and snack supplies.
Some days there are mountains to climb and others it's flat. Somedays we walk sideline to a roaring highway and some we are insolated by Nature in magical forests. We had 3 days of fog and rain at the start while coming out of France, then a week of sun, and now more rain. The mornings are cool, but by 2pm, if there is sun, it is intense and it gets into the 90s. Most of the crowd has arrived to the next albergue by that hour and misses the heat. I drag in 2 hours later, baked, because I dilly dally in cafes along the way or soak my feet in a stream or smell all the roses along the road. Oh, the wild blackberries are ripe, so I do a lot of stopping to get a belly full.
The rest of the day once I get to an albergue goes like this: Shower, tend to blisters, wash out clothes, socialize, find wifi, check email, dinner, bed. Lights out at 10 pm sharp. The albergue doors are locked and if you aren't in, too bad. It impresses me how seriously people take walking this thing.
I'd say for most, the lifestlye on the Camino takes one out of comfy
zones. First of all, there is carrying THE pack, which forces you down to the bare essentials and I do mean bare. Only two sets of clothes--the one you are wearing and the one you will put on while you wash the one you are wearing. In all the albergues there are boxes of stuff people realized they could live without and didn't want to carry anymore. It's like a mini-thrift store, which of course, tempts the daylights out of me since I´m a thrift addict, but the ache in my feet keeps me from sucumbing. Just yesterday I left behind gum and pantiliners to lighten my load.
zones. First of all, there is carrying THE pack, which forces you down to the bare essentials and I do mean bare. Only two sets of clothes--the one you are wearing and the one you will put on while you wash the one you are wearing. In all the albergues there are boxes of stuff people realized they could live without and didn't want to carry anymore. It's like a mini-thrift store, which of course, tempts the daylights out of me since I´m a thrift addict, but the ache in my feet keeps me from sucumbing. Just yesterday I left behind gum and pantiliners to lighten my load.
Then there are the living conditions--if you've got issues with modesty, hygiene or personal space, you will suffer--many (not all) albergues have coed bathrooms, coed dorm rooms of 12-130 bunk beds and shared everything. I am so proud of myself in this area and see much personal growth over the last two decades in myself. "Stuff" just doesn´t bother me like it used to and the reward is a variety of rich experiences to add to my collection.
There is no set pace anyone has to walk, so groups tend to form and disband daily.
As far as the inner journey, everyday I set an intention to walk with:
Day 1: Clarity for walking the Camino
Day 2: surrender
Day 3: prayer
Day 4: faith in flow and impermanence
Day 5: manuvering the darkness
Day 6: my relationship with food
Day 7: loving my body
Day 8: mindfulness
Day 9: Relationship with my brother
Day 10: Envisioning
Day 11: enoughness
for examples...
The idea has caught on amongst my group of friends and we check in with each other about how our intentions are going. I like the camaraderie.
I think this is the most boring piece of writing I have produced since I wrote my master's thesis on The Unbearable Lightness of Being in grad school, but anyway... Many have expressed envy at my opportunity to do this, so there is probably interest in the nuts and bolts.
I would love to add pictures, but I'd have to figure out how without my laptop and don't want to invest the time. There are people to meet and blackberries to feast...so I´m off.
As always, I love hearing from you.
As always, I love hearing from you.
All the best, g
PS The 40 minute interview with Adventures by Disney went great, I think. I showed up authentically, which is the best I can do. I won´t know anything until the end of November, so please superglue at least two fingers in a crossed position for me. I´d really love to get on with them.
PS The 40 minute interview with Adventures by Disney went great, I think. I showed up authentically, which is the best I can do. I won´t know anything until the end of November, so please superglue at least two fingers in a crossed position for me. I´d really love to get on with them.
