Greetings My Dearest Friends and Family,
Let’s do a spearmint! It’s 8:21 a.m. on December 19, 2014.
The Miami flight from which I am writing you is due to land at 9:44 a.m. Dallas
time, which gives me a window of two hours, more or less, if we factor in the
time change and subtract out the turn-off-and- store-all-electronic-devices
dead air space. I’m going to challenge myself to crank out a travelogue, salga
como salga, (however it might turn out) before the wheels of this Boeing 326
hit the tarmac.
In the most unsuspecting circumstances, I experienced a nano-second of enlightenment and realized WHY THE HELL I DO WHAT I DO. Decades of anguish over feeling confused as to why exactly I exist dissolved into a rush of peace with one fierce lurch of a chicken bus rolling down a Nicaraguan mountainside.
The story goes like this: We (10 Leapnow students, my co-leader and I) were staying on a coffee plantation 40 minutes from any place civilized enough to have internet and I needed to go into town to take care of logistics and “stuff.” After a day of getting the to-do’s done, I missed the first bus back and was forced to take the one that everyone and their uncle who has a job jumps on when the work day is over. Typical Latin America public transport situation-- a 1970’s, U.S.A retired school bus resuscitated from the junkyard, driven to Central America, packed 30 people over capacity and called “better than hoofin’ it”. That wasn’t a complete sentence and I know it, but I’m under a time constraint here. Anyway, the space was so packed that not only was there no place to sit on the bus, there was no room to have both feet flat on the floor. I had one resting on top of the other so the lady beside me had somewhere to set her sack of carrots.
Let me interject a few details here so this story will have at least as much momentum as the bus on which it took place. It was dark. The windows were fogged up, which is bound to happen when 80 sweaty bodies are crammed into a space made for 50 in a tropical climate on a rainy night. I was near the back of the bus. I had told the money taker where I wanted off, but that was over 40 minutes and 20 stops ago. Even if he did remember, I don’t know how he’d ever relay the message back to me, so I thought it in my best interest to be proactive and make my way to the front. There are situations when I’m happier than a hog in hippy doo doo to be abnormally small; overcrowded buses is one of them. Like a snake gliding through dense jungle, I slithered my way up 25 rows and popped out in the open space by the gear shift.
“Will you let me off at Santa Emilia, please?” I asked politely, just as the bus rolled to a stop.
“Santa Emilia? Where in Santa Emilia? Santa Emilia is 10 km long and has 5 stops, two of which we already passed.”
“I don’t know,” I said, “At the farm they just told me to tell you, the hacienda called Santa Emilia. It’s a coffee plantation.”
“Honey, there is nothing in Santa Emilia except haciendas and coffee plantations. Lots of them. I don’t know where you are talking about,” he responded and closed the folding door.
Well, hell. Now what? Should I stay on in hopes that we haven’t indeed already passed it? Or should I risk getting off, ask for help and start walking down the road where I’ve seen gangs of young men with machetes traversing from coffee farm to coffee farm? Over and over I’ve been warned that Nicaragua can be one of the most dangerous countries in Central America, if one doesn’t stay in a group. Indecision. Get off? Stay On? The driver’s loyalty, with reason, was with his exhausted countrymen, eager to get home to their families. Without announcement, he let off the brake and stepped on the gas. Now, given that, first, I was front heavy with my sundries-bulging backpack hanging off my chest, AND my right hand was buried deep in my pocket to protect my wallet AND my other hand was carrying a sack of apples, AND I was free standing from the crowd….given all of that, when he made his move, there was nothing to stop me from a full-force face plant on the front windshield…
…nothing that is, except for blind human kindness…in the form of a benevolent, anonymous knee-jerk hand unrestrained by differentness. Just as I was about to eat glass, I felt a force from behind grab a fistful of my raincoat and pull me back to steady.
“Tell me more about the place where you are staying,” says a woman’s voice.
“Well, it’s a coffee plantation that is owned by a Turkish man and lots of people work there and there is library project for the kids.”
“Do the workers live in casas ecologicas?”
“Yes! The bioconstruction houses!”
“We’ve still got a way to go,” she assured me and told the driver, “She’s at La Cazona. Drop her off at the entrance.”
Here’s what touched me so deeply: the whole rest of the way she never let go of my coat. With each lurch forward and roll back she adjusted her grip to keep me steady on my feet. This woman, a complete stranger, who given the condition of her teeth and clothes, has much greater things to worry about than some lost gringa on a chicken bus, made my wellbeing her priority. Dang, I thought, when walking up the dirt road to the coffee plantation, THAT is why I do what I do. I nomad around, detached, confused, vulnerable, riding the edges of uncertainty and discomfort, so I can experience humans rising to their highest potential. I expose myself to strangers, often in harsh conditions to cultivate contrast, so that we, both they and I, can show up in our human glory. It is enough. Her simple act of loving kindness is enough. Me appreciating it is enough. Giving and gratitude are enough. I can let go of the rest.
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New Year’s Eve, 2014
I’d be a big, fat liar if I said I adhered to “salga como salga”. I've spent this afternoon finishing and grooming the above story, my belated holiday gift to you. I really must get into the kitchen to prepare a Spanish tortilla for this evening's potluck. I will be bringing in the New Year at the ranch with my loved High Hope family and friends. I'm leaving a huge gap between chasing the snake in the henhouse and undergoing an epiphany on a chickenbus. TBF! (To be filled!)
In the meantime, know that I am the happiest I have ever been and wish you the same for 2015!
Much love, G